Rather what having lunch at Coq d’Argent says about you. As predictable as G20 protestors smashing the windows of RBS was The Guardian interviewing City-types eating at this well-known restaurant.

“…the bankers [it could only be bankers] appeared slightly drunk on the excitement of the protests down below; basking in the sunshine, ordering wine and necking oysters.”

Don’t blame The Guardian. Its City coverage is almost always shot from the viewpoint of the outraged citizen [read Peter Wilby’s slightly off-track commentary]. If you sympathise with oyster-necking bankers blame them for their choice of restaurant.

Coq d’Argent’s only rival for the title of most toxic restaurant brand is the Ivy. But the Ivy loses out because celebrity’s now more socially acceptable than banking. Better to be seen hanging out with H from Steps than Sir Tom McKillop.